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Choosing an emollient: focus on plant oils constituents and key aspects of their influence on skin barrier




Key words: 

emollient, plant oils, lipids, epidermal barrier, fatty acids, unsaponifiable fraction. 


Nowadays moisturization is the most common claim and basic consumer expectation of  a cosmetic product. A wide range of various emollients are used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products such as petroleum-derived hydrocarbons, synthetic or 

naturallyderived fatty acids, alcohols and esters, lanolin, sphingolipids, sterols and variety is increasing. Large differences exist in the chemical and physical properties of emollients, which are related to their variant functionality and effect on skin barrier function. Plant oils being the complex mixture comprise many of the above-mentioned emollients, thus may exert a complex effect on skin barrier and hydration. Processing a formulation by manufacturer from one side and finding the most suitable product by consumer from another is usually a matter of trial and error. The review of plant oils components with the special focus on their possible effects (positive and negative) on skin barrier could enable rational choice of these raw materials for specific application.


The Warsaw Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care Faculty of Cosmetology e-mail: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. 




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